If you are considering renewing or renovating your home and want to use some stone work, then including travertine is an excellent option. Contrary to what most people believe, for most of the structures of ancient Rome travertine was the selected building material. In actual fact, the Colosseum in Rome is the largest structure in the world mostly composed of travertine stone. Using travertine as accents and tiling in the home is becoming very popular once again from bathrooms to pool patios.

A travertine tile will generally have some fairly brown tint which matches with many color schemes. The colors usually vary from dark beige to light brown and soft reds. A good number of people are actually imagining a travertine tile when they visualize a classic Mediterranean setting. These tiles can be used for a range of applications from decoration and accents to complete counter tops and bathrooms.

Travertine wall tiles are very light in weight and thus very easy to use. During the formation of the stone from which these tiles are cut, small cavities and pockets of air are entrapped making the tile light. When compared with a marble tile, which is very thick and heavy, travertine tiles are much easier to apply to a wall. Travertine tiles are also very common for floor tiles, but they need to have the face cavities filled up and they have to be sealed very well. The untreated tile is quite simple to soil since any fluid that is dropped on the surface will infiltrate through the small cracks and voids in the surface and then it can not be eliminated. A good quality sealant can protect the tile floor in the coming years when applied properly, giving you a very remarkable entrance or kitchen floor.

Travertine is also very common in the backyard or patio. For centuries travertine stepping stones and pavers have been used and they have nowadays become well-liked in North America too. Once more, they should be covered to exclude the factors because when sealed they will last for a long period of time.

One outside area that is very suitable for these tiles is the pool deck. The natural voids in travertine trap any water that is splashed or dripped which cools the walking surface and also keep them from getting slippery. Generally, a tumbled tile is used for this application as it is rougher than a polished one and thus will allow for the drainage and increased traction for your feet.

If you are looking at installing new pool deck tiles then you can’t go wrong with these. Travertine pool decking tiles are beautiful, safe, and offer a touch of the old Mediterranean feel.

Why, because the end use consumer is getting a better deal. The final cost of installing natural stone on personal residence or commercial building is the cost of both the stone and the labor combined. That cost equation has pushed the market from installing full bed depth natural stone in years gone by, to the majority of the market being the installation of natural stone thin veneer.

The big picture is this: the cost of labor has come down for installing “thin veneer” stone products as the knowledge and familiarity has risen on how to do it. Labor, in most markets around the United States, is a greater portion of the overall cost of installation than the actual stone product. Full bed stone products normally cost less than most real stone thin veneer products, and they are normally sold by the ton or pound. On average, most full bed products will yield 30-45 square feet per ton of coverage. You’ll have to make a cost conversion for what you paid per ton to how much it is costing you per square foot [i.e. If you paid $350 per ton for the stone, and it yields 40 sq. ft. per ton, your cost for the stone only, is $8.75 per sq. ft.]. Real Stone thin veneer is normally sold by the square foot for “flats,” and by the linear foot for “corners.” In most cases the cost per sq. ft. or linear foot may be a bit higher than the converted cost of full bed product. This is logical as the cost of the thin veneer is the cost of the full bed stone plus the labor to convert it into thin veneer. However, for the consumer, the savings is in the installation labor. We have surveyed many markets around the USA as we cover a wide area of distribution. It would be a fair statement for me to say that the cost of labor to install real stone thin veneer is, at a minimum, (only 1/2) as expensive as the cost to install full bed real stone. In many markets that differential may be as much as 80%; in other words, the cost of installing natural stone thin veneer may be equal to paying only 20% of the cost of installing full bed natural stone in that market. The more expensive the labor in your market, the more true this is.

You’ll have to do your own due diligence about finding the right mason for your job and estimating how much labor will cost you. However, no matter how much homework you do, I can almost guarantee the final cost of your project will always be less costly installing real stone thin veneer than real stone full bed material.

Many communities with higher standards of building requirements may require natural stone versus “fake” or man-made stone products. Natural Stone thin veneer will meet almost any discriminating body, and will save the owner of the project money. With a high quality natural stone thin veneer, and a decent mason installer, no-one will ever be able to tell the difference between a full bed versus thin veneer job.

Natural stone thin veneer is is the real deal. It is just fabricated REAL STONE, either in a “processing plant,” or occasionally “on the job.” Unlike fake (aka “cultured,” or “manufactured”) stone, which is made of concrete, plaster and paint products – real stone “thin veneer” is a sawn off portion of the real version of the full stone (100% made by nature). It has all the properties of the full bed stone; including its hardness, color and natural beauty. It will not fade or deteriorate like the man made imitations. If fabricated in a high quality environment, the “processor” will normally saw off the the front and rear “rise” of the natural ledgestone. Picture taking a brick shaped piece of a full size stone and sawing off the front and back “faces” to yield a natural face, and natural surface top, bottom and ends. The normal specification is for the stone to have a new thickness of approximately 1″ – 1 3/8″ and a maximum weight of under 15 lbs per square foot. Natural looking “corners” are achieved the same way – however more waste is involved if the product is high enough quality to be sawn to have all natural ends. Again, imagine a brick shaped piece of natural ledge stone, look down at it from a top view, and imagine cutting one “L” shape corner out of it. The rest of the piece is scrap if it is to have all natural exposed surfaces.

At our company, as a quarrier of real stone, and also a fabricator of natural stone thin veneer, we don’t really care which product is being sold – but the reality is that the consumer has pushed the market towards natural stone thin veneer because the total job cost is less expensive doing it that way. It all makes perfect sense, dollars and cents!

As a final thought, I will say that the cheapest installer may not be the one you are looking for. Ultimately, the final look of your job comes down to the guy or crew that is doing the installation and you need to evaluate your desired outcome with your budget. Just like you may not choose the most expensive nor the least expensive stone, you may not want to choose the most expensive nor least expensive installer. It is very unlikely a non-professional could successfully install full bed natural stone. However, it is possible that an average “handy-man” can install real stone thin veneer, and may really enjoy the process and reap great satisfaction.

Best of luck with your project!

Michael Coleman is the National Sales Manager and one of the principals of Stone Direct. The Thin Veneer Store has been designed as a place for the general public, home owners, contractors, and builders, to purchase real stone thin veneer directly from the source. Our parent company, Stone Direct International, LLC has been supplying stoneyards and building material companies for over a decade. Our main business model has not changed and we will continue to protect our valued dealers. However, we realize that there are a lot of consumers in the USA and Canada, and possibly beyond, that we do not reach with our current dealer network. The internet has certainly changed the reach of conventional marketing. There may be some individual people, that inquire because of this website, that we will have to decline to sell to directly due to a conflict with our loyalty to dealers. However, if you are serious about your project with natural stone thin veneer, and your job is at least 500 sq. feet and/or linear feet, we encourage you to inquire through e-mail or phone.

Michael Coleman
National Sales Manager
http://www.thinveneerstore.com
sales@thinveneerstore.com

Stone brick is just what it says. It is stone cut in the shape of bricks. Sometimes these bricks are cut much larger than the standard bricks one is used to seeing and sometimes they are the same. Having Security Stone Brick in the construction of one’s home is an excellent safety feature. This type of stone brick is not the same as cast stone which is manufactured to resemble it.

1. Choosing the correct stone for one’s project is, of course, primary. Also, it is essential that a sufficient amount be purchased at the same time. There would be nothing worse than almost finishing a project and then discovering that one was a few bricks short and they could not be matched.

2. Deciding on the correct color is paramount. It must be remembered that this brick is going to be around for many, many years. The color will depend on the stone selected and it can be limestone, brownstone, bluestone, granite, slate or one of the many other natural building stones available.

3. If one is going to embed a security feature, or features, it needs to be selected before the project ever begins. Motion porch lights are always a great feature as they prevent accidents from happening when someone comes to the door at night. Motion lights on other parts of the building would also be very effective and reveal the presence of any unknown person or persons.

4. Some people like to place a security camera in the stone. When it is the same color it blends in very well and whatever part of the property it is focused on will show on an inside monitor. Many people are using this method of protection, especially if they are in a country setting.

5. Security Stone Brick is just what the name implies. A wall made of this brick is impenetrable and all one needs for additional safety are the added security features. These features will give the owner peace of mind knowing that the appearance of any intruder can be quickly be determined and appropriate action can be taken.

Paul De Vizard is expert in Home Improvement. Check out his site on Gutter Guard Reviews and especially look my information on the Aluminum Gutter Guard to improve the value of your home.

Vinyl siding has evolved in the thirty plus years I have been in this industry. In its infancy you saw vinyl siding products in basic white a two profiles. Then along came a few color options but one common problem among manufacturers remained. How to control the chemical process to keep the material flexible over time especially when subjected to extreme sun or winter cold?

As a result vinyl siding was considered to be fragile and easily damaged up until the last ten years or so. Through advances in technology all manufacturers have created much better products to the extent that most modern product now carry a limited lifetime warranty. When you combine that fact with the vast array of products and colors now available it is not hard to see why modern vinyl siding products have become a best value in many markets.

To illustrate how vast your choices have become, I am going to give you a breakdown of all the available products from one prominent manufacturer. I think you will be surprised to learn they even offer a very realistic cultured stone look in an insulated vinyl product that is very do-it-yourself friendly and looks amazingly realistic.

The vinyl siding manufacture I am going to feature here is the Exterior Portfolio by Crane. In this product line description I will start with the most unique products and work my way to the most basic. In the Exterior Portfolio by Crane the first product line I will cover is their newest.

Bella Stone® is the first architecturally correct looking stone finish I have ever seen in a vinyl product, an insulated vinyl product at that. It comes to you in panels of varied sizes and mounts with a simple starter strip and clip system similar to many other vinyl sidings. What makes it unique is that it has a full line of accessories including a joint filler and aggregate that you place on the joints to make them disappear. It can be cut from the back to form its own corners or the manufacturer sells a complete corner system as well water tables and window sill pieces unique to their system. I have been amazed at the natural look and ease of installation. This system is perfect for anyone looking for the beauty of natural stone at a fraction of the cost and effort to install. Bella Stone® also compliments this system with a package designed to create a stone base and finish cap for your exterior columns.

Next let’s talk about the Portsmouth Shake® Since the shake look has become a staple on most new homes it is no wonder that the Exterior Portfolio by Crane offers seven different styles. Whether you are looking for the natural beauty of Hand Split Shakes, the more rugged look of Hand Split Variegated Shakes, or the longer profile of the Staggered Shake they have your product and color. Each these products come in a more uneven rough split appearance. If you are looking for something a little more refined then Cedar Shake, Perfections Shake, or 8′ long Shake Sections should be more to your liking. These products display the look of a sawn wood shingle with a more evenly matched edge profile. Rounding out the line in a literal sense would be the Traditional Half Rounds. So you see no matter what style shake best suits your project you are sure to find the perfect answer here.

The last product series I am going to detail here is the Oracle™ Insulated vinyl siding series. Oracle comes in either a Quad 4″ Clapboard or a Triple 4.5″ Dutchlap profile. It boasts up to a 4.0 R value and a 45% noise reduction. It has a 17% better resistance to air infiltration than their standard products and a 300% increase in impact resistance.

I will round out the rest of the product lines in full detail at my web site where I encourage you browse for details on any home building or home remodeling subject. I will also provide you with a direct link to the Crane web site including its exclusive visual design center where you can place their siding on an image of your home.

As always I hope you have found this article informative, please leave me a message or comment and I will use your ideas to create further in depth product review articles from the perspective of a seasoned expert in the field.

My name is Jim Patrick, and I am an accomplished residential designer with hundreds of families enjoying the fruits of our mutual labor, but I also spend every day selling every aspect of building product to my clients.

Stop by my http://www.homebuilding-questions.com site and I’ll take you through each step of the process, whether you are building a new home or addition or doing some remodeling like a new kitchen or bathroom.

Aggregates is a general term applied to those inert (that is chemically inactive) materials, which when bonded together by cement, form concrete. Most are used in our country are naturally occurring such as sand, crushed rock and gravels. Artificial and processed aggregate may also be use for making concrete. This may be broken bricks or crushed air-cooled blast furnace slag.

Light weight aggregates, which are usually by-products of industries and are processed from natural sources or natural materials have a high percentage of voids and are, therefore, light such as pumice, furnace, clinkers, coke breeze, saw dust, foamed slag, expanded clays, and shales, expanded slates, etc., These are also used for the production of concrete of low density. The workability of concrete with lightweight ones and is greatly increased with air-entraining agents, and hence the use of many light weight aggregates is being made in concrete where high strength is not desired.

Classification

Aggregates for concrete are divided in to three categories,

1. Fine Aggregates: Most of which passes through 4.75 mm I.S. sieve and are retained on 150 micron sieve.

2. Coarse Aggregates: Most of which passes through 63 mm I.S. sieve and retained on 4.75 mm sieve.

3. All in Aggregates: Mixed aggregates, as it comes from the pit or riverbed. It is sometimes used for unimportant work without separating in to different sizes.

Uses

1. Naturally occurring crushed stone can be used for producing any type of good concrete or R.C.C for construction purposes.

2. Broken bricks are used for water-proof construction.

3. Light weight aggregates are used to produce low density.

For more info about Construction news, Visit our Civil Construction portal.

A brick wall is a awful accent to your garden or can be a simple means to create privacy in a yard. While being appealing they are also very simple to sustain when finished as they won’t acquire the cracks and cracks that cement block walls might. Bricks are supposed to be arranged against an already existing wall, so if you plan to build a brick wall it should not be too big. People often hire pricey contractors to construct even the lowest brick walks for their homes, but utilising the flowing guide will eradicate the need for doing that and provide a fun home design for do-it-yourselfers.

There are many various styles that a brick wall can be built in. The most common of which is the running bond or the way where each new row of bricks begins in the center of the row before. There are also the herring bone, diagonal herringbone, basket weave, and half basket weave. For the aims of this guide, the style being explained will be the Jack on Jack, where the blocks are placed directly on top of each other.

Required tools and Materials

The materials needed for building a brick wall include the following:

Cement
Bricks (the number of bricks required depends upon the length and the width of the wall)
Measuring tape
Shovel
Trowel
Leveling tool
Chalk

Instructions

Step one:
Measure out the proportions of the wall you want to build, length and height.

Step two:
Make the concrete base for the wall. This will ensure that the wall is flat once it is made. Mix the concrete as per the instructions on the bag and lay it out along the area that will be used as the base of the wall. It is okay if the width of the base is uneven as you will be able to cover it with earth once the wall is complete. Let the concrete to dry completely which will take at least one day.

Step three:
Once the concrete is dry, mark the length of the wall with chalk and a straight edge such as a piece of wood. This will be used as the guide to lay the first layer of bricks.

Step four:
Start building the wall from the left most side. Apply a liberal new layer of wet cement on top of the now dry wall base with the trowel. Spread the cement with an even back and forth motion.

Place down the first layer of bricks, moving from left to right without allowing any space between them. Subsequent layers will have a joint or space between each brick that is filled with cement.

Step five:
With the leveling tool see that the first layer is as level as possible. The cement will provide some amount of movement for misplaced bricks. Uneven bricks can be shifted to give evenness across the length of the wall. Remove the extra cement that is pressed through the sides using the trowel and use it for the next brick to be placed.

Step six:
Repeat steps four and five until the height of the wall you are making is achieved.

Tips and Warnings
Check with your local constructing agency before making a brick wall. Many laws will allow small ones (under 3 feet high) without it being necessary to file for permits.

Keep the bricks you will be working with in a wheel barrow to your right. This way they are within arms reach and can be easily moved as you move down the length of the wall.

Please visit these links for more information on: How to Build a Brick Wall and Build a Brick Wall.

A chimney is an important element for any home, new or old. You are completely reliant on your chimney to effectively channel smoke up, out and away from your home, keeping your home’s air healthy and free of carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide (also known as CO) is a colorless, odorless gas that can be fatal not only to children, but their parents as well. When a flue develops cracks on either the inside or outside, you may have serious problems that could threaten the lives of your family. For these reasons, among the money saved by not hiring a contractor, any family who owns a home with a chimney should look into repairing, as well as performing routine maintenance on their chimney.

For older homes, their chimney is made of brick and mortar. Mortar connects the bricks together in a way that creates a long passage for hot air, smoke and other dangerous toxins to escape. As the mortar heats and cools day in and day out through normal use of your fireplace, it is likely to crack, and even wash out entirely after a period of 20 years. While this is typically long lived, and some homeowners feel they can simply wait it out, more often than not this requires a complete rebuild, rather than an inexpensive maintenance plan.

Before making any sorts of repairs, it’s important to first inspect and then make certain all debris is removed from the chimney walls. As time goes on, tar and other contaminants can build up, leaving thick layers of creosote on the flue walls. Historically, this has been done by a chimney sweep, using a sweep of a specific diameter to brush away the insides of the chimney wall. In addition, there exists products such as the creosote sweeping log, that releases chemicals designed to loosen up this buildup to make the sweeping easier.

From here, it’s simply a matter of stepping on to the roof of your home and inspecting the joints of the bricks for cracks and other faults. Once these are located, apply new mortar to the affected area, and let dry. While the joint does not need to be cracked in order for mortar to be applied, this will cost more than simply applying mortar to the affected areas. Beyond this, it is advised to hire a professional for deeper repairs. This type of work is not only skill intensive, but it can be dangerous given the height of most roofs, and should be left to a professional.

You can learn more about chimney repair costs, and get much more information, articles and resources about chimney repairs by visiting chimney repair.

EDGING. When it comes to edging, you have just about as many products to choose from as you do pavers. So, why so many choices? Edging is edging, right?

Wrong! The quality of the your edging can significantly impact the overall quality of your project. In order to maintain a high level of quality at all your paver project sites, you need to choose the best edging project for each individual job. The only way to do that is to become familiar with the edging products on the market. So, lets take a look at a few types of edging products.

STEEL EDGING

One of the oldest edging products in the industry is steel edging. Prior to the introduction of PVC edging, steel edging was probably the most commonly used edging. In fact, many contractors still use it today.

Pros:

• available in long lengths (between 16 to 20 feet), allowing more linear footage to be installed per section

• can withstand the extreme temperatures of asphalt, making it ideal for asphalt applications on driveways

• provides smooth vertical surfaces against the paving application

Cons:

• difficult to use in curve-linear applications

• anchoring stakes are spaced far apart, creating the risk of shifting or raising above the paving application

• difficult to cut

• rusts over time

TIMBERS

Timbers are commonly used as an edging restraint on patios and sidewalks.

Pros:

• works well for rect-linear applications

• solid installation with standard 6″ x 6″ x 8′ dimensions

• good for raised patio applications

Cons:

• more expensive than plastic edging

• heavy, making it difficult for one person installation

• may deteriorate and/or warp over time

CONCRETE EDGING

Occasionally, a project requires concrete edging to be poured on site.

Pros:

• extends well into the gravel base

• provides a solid vertical surface against the pavers

• superior strength, making it an excellent choice for vehicular and industrial applications

Cons:

• more expensive than plastic edging

• labor intensive

• tendency to crack or shift over time, especially in regions that experience freeze / thaw cycles.

PLASTIC EDGING

The most commonly used edging restraint is plastic or PVC edging. There are literally dozens of manufacturers who offer numerous plastic edging products.

Pros:

• less expensive than most other edgings

• quick and easy installation

• light weight and flexible

• very strong

• won’t deteriorate over time

• can be used in residential, commercial and industrial applications

• average length 8 feet

Cons:

• not recommended for asphalt or heavy industrial applications

So, that’s a quick look at the four edging products most commonly used by contractors. Remember, whether your project is a complex job or a basic installation, the proper edging must be used to maintain the quality of your paver application. A paver project without edging is a paver project guaranteed to fail over time.

Kurt Glave has over 28 years of professional experience in the Landscape / Hardscape Industry. He also started the original Hardscape Expo & Conference Tradeshow and is now a Regional Sales Manager for RCP http://www.silvercreekstoneworks.com

Applying the beautiful traditional look of brick gives your home a great makeover. However, by choosing a faux alternative, you can have that look without having to break the bank. Traditional bricks can be very expensive and can involve tearing down walls and additional construction to apply, but a thin brick veneer can be applied right on top of your existing walls. Supplying a completely custom experience, however you decide to decorate your house has become way easier and more personal.

The highly adaptable nature of brick veneer walls enable it to be put on almost any surface and fit any sort of specific look you have in mind. Faux brick is accessible in a spectrum of colors, styles, textures, and looks. Whether you want accents in your living room or a complete remodeling of your home’s exterior, a thin brick veneer can take your vision and make it reality. Whether you want the look of a 19th century red brick school house or an ultra-modern white brick facade, the adaptability of faux brick provides a great value. Since no walls have to be torn down, you can avoid additional costs for destruction and construction, saving you even more money.

It’s very easy to become fearful of do-it-yourself projects, but the application of faux brick is surprisingly quick and easy. If you’ve had bad experiences building a tree house for the kids, you will find no trouble in applying your new brick veneer. However, if you’ve become traumatized beyond the point of no return, a qualified professional is just as capable of applying the faux brick. The faux brick is only faux in its size. Made with actual clay and fired in an oven, your thin brick counterpart is made to look and resemble traditional brick in every way. Providing the same classic effect as traditional sized brick, a faux brick is a lighter, more affordable alternative to regular brick. Brick can be brittle and very expensive, but in investing in the cheaper faux alternative, adding a rustic element to your home is very easy.

Doing some research can go a long way in picking out your faux brick veneer. Deciding how and where to apply your faux brick is important, and the opinions of friends and professionals can aid in making your home look as great as possible. Architectural jargon can be pretty intimidating. Learning just a few and applying them to your home not only makes you more knowledgeable in the placement of your brick panels, but also more confident in your choice. Having specific ideas in mind can make the decision making process easier and will end up in your new brick accents looking their best.

A faux brick veneer offers literally all the benefits of brick without the inconvenience of a construction crew, a mason, or a smaller wallet. Just a few accents can instantly makeover your home, and it has never been quicker or easier. Whether you want the look of a New Orleans waterfront restaurant or a Virginian countryside cabin, a brick veneer wall can add an instant touch of charm to your home.

Polishing marble is necessary when a polish finish stone becomes scratched or etched to the point it becomes dull. The other reason marble requires polishing is if the customer has a stone that comes to him with a hone finish and he desires it to be polished. These are the only two reasons I can think of a stone should be polished. Refinishing to eliminate wear or changing the tiles from a hone to a polish.

Stone is available in two finishes: hone or polish. Polish is easy for most people to visualize – it is a shiny, glossy finish, and when viewed across a light source there will be a reflection. This is my definition of polish, I am sure there are others.

Hone finish is a bit harder for a customer to visualize. Honing is accomplished in two ways: with diamond or powder abrasives (there is another way, but lets just stick with the abrasives) These abrasives are available in different grits – from 30 to 3000. The hone finish will depend on the grit level of the process ends with. You cannot go to too high a grit level (usually over 220) or the stone will take on a polish look.

Which gets us back to the subject of polishing marble. Honing is a story for another day.

After the stone is taken through a grit progression (lets say 120,200,400,800) the stone will develop two things the stone expert looks for: clarity and depth of color. In the lower honing grits, the stone appears faded and white, with very little color. As the grit progression to the higher grits, detail in the stone (clarity) and color (depth of color) begins to return. As we approach the honing stage where the stone becomes recognizable again (all stone is different so this happens at different grits) we are getting ready to complete the final polish process.

There are several different final polishing methods available for marble. We sell one in our online store that is suitable for do it yourslefers. There are some applied dry and some applied wet. If the stone professional is experienced, they should be able to achieve a high gloss finish. The polish finish is accomplished through the use of heat and friction. One word of caution is not to allow a product called a crystalizer to be applied with a steel wool pad. This process will make it impossible to refinish in the future, unless more crystalizer is applied.

Harry Edenfield owns Restoration by Fabric & Tile Masters in Jacksonville Florida. Please visit us at http://www.fabricmasters.com for more information. Harry also authors the blog listed in the article above, where he gives information on a variety of topics related to stone counter tops, carpet, upholstery, porcelain and ceramic tiles, water damage restoration and mold removal. Harry is also a member of the IICRC, the Marble Institute of America, and is an Accredited Member of the Better Business Bureau of Northeast Florida.