If you’re looking for information on installing a roof, you’ve come to the right place. Although every step doesn’t apply to every project, here is an overview of the basics…

Installing a Roof: Step #1 – Planning

• Who’s going to do the work?
• What type of roofing will you install?
• When will you do the work?
• Where will you get the roofing materials?
• Why choose one type of roofing over another?
• How will you proceed with the work?

Installing a Roof: Step #2 – Estimating

• Create a “birds-eye” sketch of the roof.
• Measure the slope of the roof.
• Measure the length of every hip, ridge, valley, eave and rake.
• Measure the rafter length of each roof section.
• Determine size and type of pipes, vents and other flashings required.
• Take “before” pictures.
• Calculate the square footage of the roof area.

Installing a Roof: Step #3 – Purchasing

• Create a list of materials needed.
• Get at least three quotes for material prices.
• Order the materials.
• Receive delivery and loading of the materials.
• Purchase or rent any special tools required.

Installing a Roof: Step #4 – For Roofovers

• Determine that the existing roof has no more than two layers.
• Determine that the condition of the existing roof can accommodate a roofover.
• Install new drip edge.
• Install new valley metal.
• Install new gooseneck vents and pipe flashings.
• Remove hips and ridges.

Installing a Roof: Step #5 – For Tear Offs

• Remove the old roofing down to the bare wood.
• Remove all protruding fasteners.

Installing a Roof: Step #6 – Carpentry

• Repair any deteriorated sheathing, framing and/or fascia.
• Renail roof sheathing as needed to meet code.
• Cut out ridge vents slots as needed.

Installing a Roof: Step #7 – Underlayment

• Install underlayment over entire roof deck.
• Temporarily seal all vents, pipes and other flashings.

Installing a Roof: Step #8 – For Flat Roofs

• Remove existing roof down to the bare wood.
• Repair any deteriorated wood.
• Install tapered system as needed.
• Install base sheet, with nail pattern per code.
• Install self-adhering mid-ply.
• Install and prime drip edge and flashings.
• Have “In-Progress” Inspection
• Install self-adhering cap sheet.

Installing a Roof: Step #9 – Flashing

• Tack on the drip edge with 3″ minimum lap.
• Check appearance from ground.
• Nail off drip edge, with nails no more than 6″ apart.
• Install valley metal and wall flashings.
• Install new gooseneck vents and pipe flashings.
• Have “Dry-in” Inspection.

Installing a Roof: Step #10 – Layout

• Measure for vertical and horizontal lines.
• Chalk red layout lines on underlayment.

Installing a Roof: Step #11 – Shingle

• Install “ice and water shield” where required.
• Install starter strips.
• Install field shingles.
• Install cap shingles on hips and ridges.

Installing a Roof: Step #12 – Ventilation

• Layout ridge vent slots.
• Cut out slots.
• Caulk around slots with flashing cement.
• Install ridge vents with corrosion-resistant screws and grommeted washers.

Installing a Roof: Step #13 – Cleanup and Final Inspection

• Remove any debris from roof and gutters.
• Clean up ground.
• Haul away debris.
• Return any leftover materials.
• Take “after” pictures.
• Have Final Inspection.

If you’re going to install your own roof, there’s a lot more you need to know. To make the job easier and help you avoid big mistakes, go to: http://www.roofingsecrets.com

John C Bishop is the author of “Roofing Secrets: How to Avoid Leaks and Save Thousands of Dollars!”

If you’re looking for information on how to install roofing shingles, you’ve come to the right place. But first, a short story…

22 years ago I made a career change, going from a cushy desk job working in air-conditioned comfort to roofing in the sweltering heat of Southwest Florida in August.

My first job was installing a second layer of shingles on a small house in Cape Coral, Florida. Once the boss was satisfied that I knew how to install roofing shingles properly, he let me do the job by myself.

I’m sure he had no idea that it would take me as long as it did. I had three things going against me…

First off, I was out-of-shape and not used to working outside in the heat. Second, I was too fussy, shooting for perfection instead of excellence.

But my biggest problem was installing thousands of roofing nails with a hammer because I didn’t have a nail gun. Fast hand nailing is an art and I was no artist!

So each day the boss stopped by to see how I was doing. The quality was fine, but my progress was painfully slow. However, I was on piecework, so it didn’t really matter much to him how long it took.

But as day after day went by, it became a big joke. Not only did the boss stop by, but other roofers and friends of the boss stopped by. None of them could believe how long it was taking me to install roofing shingles and each of them just had to see it for themselves. I remember them trying to conceal their smirks.

Finally, after nine days the job was complete. As the boss paid me the $200 I had coming, he asked if I was sure I wanted to install roofing for a living. When I told him I did, he said he better get me a nail gun… because I was going to starve at that rate!

Since I had a wife, three kids and a big mortgage, I couldn’t have agreed more.

The next job went much faster and easier, thanks to the pneumatic roofing nailer. I found I could install roofing nails six times faster with the nail gun than with my hammer.

If you’re going to roof your own home, you stand to save thousands of dollars… but it’s a tough job. You should be able to justify getting the tools that will make the job go faster and easier. And no tools will help you install roofing shingles faster and easier than a nail gun and compressor.

There are many good models available, but my preference is a Hitachi NV45AB2 for the nailer and a Porter Cable 150 PSI pancake compressor.

You could rent them, but the prices have come down so much, you will probably be better off buying. That will also allow you to work at your own pace and you could sell the tools after the job, recouping much of their cost.

Some old timers still prefer hand nailing because they say a nail gun promotes putting the nails in the wrong place. But I say you can put the nails in the right place or the wrong place with either tool.

Of course there’s a lot more involved in learning how to install roofing shingles. To make the job easier and help you avoid big mistakes, go to: http://www.roofingsecrets.com

John C Bishop is the author of “Roofing Secrets: How to Avoid Leaks and Save Thousands of Dollars!”

Roofs are not made in the same way they were years ago when our homestead was built. Today, there are more types of roofing materials to choose from, and many homeowners are choosing a metal roof. Homeowners are finding there are more benefits to having metal roofs of their buildings, which is adding to their already gaining popularity.

Durability is a major factor in homeowners choosing metal roofs. Metal roofs are sturdier and more dependable when it comes to weather such you’ll find in winter storms. Summer windy rainstorms and extreme heat are not as much of a threat with metal as with asphalt or other types of tiles and shingles. Metal roofs can withstand fire better, too. When you use a metal roof, you home will be protected better than if you’d used traditional asphalt tiles.

Another plus for using metal roofs is their ability to deter heat moving in or out of the house. Metal roofing consists of compounds that help to reflect the heat better, allowing your home to stay warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. Most people that use metal roofs notice a decrease of up to 20% in their energy bills. The thermal reflectivity provided by metal roofs through each season, makes them very popular roofs.

Unlike shingles or tiles, which are locked on two sides, metal roofs are made with a special interlocking system, which works four different ways, helping them to last longer and withstand more. This four-way interlocking system is another factor that helps make the home more energy efficient in summer or winter.

Metal roofs are made with layers of different compounds including paint, and metallic and polymer coatings. This combination makes them more durable as well as more rust resistant than other roofing materials. The performance of the polymers on your roof helps it to look like brand new. If your roof being to fade, you only have to hose it down with water and it will look like brand new again. These qualities make this roof very low-maintenance requiring little repair or special tools.

Yet another reason why metals roofs are gaining popularity is the value they add to your home. It adds value because of the savings on your energy bill. This becomes a plus if and when you try to sell your home. It will also add to the appraisal value of your home because metal roofs usually last close to 50 years, if not your lifetime. Most prospective buyers will know if they have maintenance problems, roofing won’t be one of them.

Another plus for using metal roofs is that there is a larger variety of styles and colors than other types of roofing material. This also adds to the value of your home.

Installation of metal roofs can be done over the existing roof, which makes it time saving and less cost. Overall, metal roofs are gaining popularity for many reasons: style, value, energy saving, ease of use, durability and appearance.

Ray Walberg often edits news stories on information dealing with japanese woodworking tools. You can see his abstracts on japanese woodworking tools and wood working tools over at http://www.insidewoodworking.com

There are many factors to consider when choosing the right roofing for your home. You have to consider everything so you can get a roof that will work well for your home and provide it with the best protection.

You will also have to consider the installation. You should decide if you are going to install it yourself or if you will be hiring someone to install it for you. This is important when considering the budget for the project.

Roof Types

The first thing you should do is identify the type of roof you have. In general, houses have one of four different roof types – flat, low pitch, medium pitch or steep.

Flat – This type of roof has no steepness to it and lies flat. With a flat roof you will have limited options as to what material type you can use.

Low Pitch – This roof has a slight slope and is easy to walk on.

Medium Pitch – One of the most common roofing types, it is not the steepest roof but has more slope than a low pitch roof.

Steep – The maximum roof slope, this type of roof is difficult to walk on.

Roofing Materials

The next thing you will consider is the type of roofing material you will use. You have many options. You can get tile, shingles, metal or other materials. You will want to choose the material based upon the slope of your roof.

The style of roofing material is going to determine how the finished roof will look. This is usually matched to the style of your home.

Roofing Concerns

Here are some things to always keep in mind when choosing new roofing:

- ease of installation

- ease of maintenance

- cost

- life span of materials

- upkeep needs

- repair costs

You will also want to consider if you will install the new roof yourself or hire someone to do it. If hiring someone you need to shop around and find someone with experience installing your type of roof. If doing it yourself then you should make sure that you understand exactly how to do it.

Your roof is an important part of your home. It protects your home and when it goes bad you can end up with major damage to your home and to your belongings inside. You have to choose a new roof with care. You should consider everything mentioned above so you can make the best choice possible.

High class workmanship and meticulous care about the details are the things that make a good roof, fully as much as the choice of materials.

Roofing shingles should be thick at the butt. The most popular thickness is expressed as 5/2, meaning that the butts of five shingles will measure 2″ in thick­ness, so that each shingle is 2/5″ thick, at the butt, tapered, of course, to less than an eighth of an inch at the tip.

These shingles should be put on with galvanized nails, as the blued or bright nails will soon rust and let the shingles blow off.

Expose wood shingles about 41/2″ to the weather on the flatter roofs, and 5″ to the weather on the steeper roofs. Note that the roof must not be too flat for shingle roofs, minimum rise 5″ per foot of run.

Shingles are laid with a small space, about 1/4” wide, between the shingles. If they are laid too tight­ly together, they will buckle when they get wet, look unsightly, and give opportunity for the rain to blow under them.

Always put two nails in every shingle, no matter how wide or narrow. Split all shingles over 8″ in width, as they will split of themselves if you don’t do it.

To start shingles, stretch a line along the lower edge of the roof about two inches out from the cor­nice. To do this put a shingle on at each end of the roof, and let it project the required two inches beyond the cornice. Then with shingle nails in the ends of these shingles, tie the string and stretch it tightly.

This will give you the line for the first course of shingles. Always double the first course of shingles; that is, lay a second course directly on top of the first course, with the lower ends even so that you have two thicknesses of shingles at the start.

Then measure up 41/2” or whatever your exposure is to be and strike a chalk line, or lay a straight piece of 1″ x 6″ on the correct line to mark the bottom of the next course. Put the next course of shingles to this line, or against the straight edge, and nail them in place. Put the nails about 3/4” from the edges of the shingle, and far enough up so the next course will cover them. Give the shingles a side lap of at least 11/2″.

Sheathing does not need to be tight together for shingles. Do not use roofing paper under wood shin­gles.

For asphalt or composition roofing shingles the sheath­ing must be tight together. If you want a projection at the eaves, it will be necessary to support the as­phalt shingles, as they are too limber to project by themselves. An easy way to accomplish this is to use a double course of wood shingles at the eaves, giving a projection of about 11/2″; the asphalt shingles can then be made even with the wood shingles and will be adequately supported. This will get the drip far enough away from the cornice.

To get a smooth effect, some shinglers place the first course of asphalt shingles with what is normally the top edge toward the bottom, then place the next shingle immediately on top of this one in the regular way to start the pattern of the shingling.

Care should be taken to keep the pattern of the roof running in straight lines, as the regular size of the composition shingles make any deviation very noticeable. If you get started right, no difficulty should be encountered.

Nail the composition shingles with 7/8” galvan­ized roofing nails, or with other size if recommend­ed by the manufacturer. Directions for placing com­position shingles usually come in the bundle with the shingles.

It is a good precaution to put a layer of 30 1b. felt on the sheathing before placing asphalt shingles.

The principal disadvantage of wood roofing shingles or asphalt and paper shingles is that they are not fire­proof.

The fireproof roofing materials include such ma­terials as slate, tile, rigid asbestos shingles, copper, and galvanized iron.

With some careful self-application you should be able to construct a sound roof.

Rain gutters protect your house from water damage, but they only do their job when free of clogs. To keep your gutters flowing freely, you need to clean them periodically.

The conventional wisdom says to clean your rain gutters twice a year – once in the fall and once in the spring. In fact, this is the minimum frequency at which you should clean them. If you live in a rainy climate or have trees near your roof, you will need to clean your gutters more often.

Check your gutters once a month during the rainy season to make sure they are clean. In addition to leaves and pine needles, check for small seeds and nuts. If allowed to build up, these can leave a tar-like residue that’s hard to remove.

To clean your gutters you’ll need the right tools, and the most important tool for this job is a steady ladder.

If you have a low roof, a step-ladder may be enough to do the job. Otherwise you will need a stabilized extension ladder. Lean the top of the ladder against your roof and place the bottom on level ground about one quarter of the ladder’s length away from the wall.

Leaning an extension ladder against your gutters can damage them. You can avoid this by using a ladder stabilizer, which is a metal triangle that attaches to the ladder, allowing it to rest safely against a wall and keeping its weight off of your gutters.

Remember never to stand on the top step of your ladder. If your ladder isn’t tall enough for you to comfortably reach your gutters, don’t be a hero, just get a bigger ladder.

Once your ladder is in place, you’ll need a plastic bucket to store debris. Hang the bucket from a ladder step with an S-hook. Don’t be tempted to hang the bucket from your gutters, since the added weight can damage the gutters.

Next you’ll need a tool for scraping leaves and other debris from your gutters. A trowel or garden spade will do the job, but avoid sharp tools that can gouge your gutters. Some hardware stores also sell a specialized “gutter scooper,” which is basically a long-bladed trowel shaped to fit most gutters.

Begin near a downspout and scoop out debris, working your way along the gutters and away from the downspout.

After you have cleaned out the debris, flush the gutters with a garden hose. This is also a good time to check for leaks in your gutter system.

Next, check for clogs in your downspouts. Insert your garden hose into the top of the downspout and turn on the water. Compare the flow from the hose to that washing out of the downspout. A slow flow means you have a clogged downspout.

Unclogging your downspouts is undoubtedly the hardest part of cleaning your gutters. You can try blasting water through the downspout, but this can potentially worsen the clog.

In many cases it’s better to disassemble the downspout. Take out the elbows, which are where clogs usually occur, and clean them with your tools.

Another option is to use a plumber’s snake (sometimes called a plumber’s auger or drain auger). Essentially an auger with a flexible tube, the plumber’s snake lets you bore through the clog. Just be sure to buy a plumber’s snake that’s wide enough for your rain gutters.

Instead of cleaning your own gutters, you can a hire service to do the job for you. The cost depends on the size and height of your house. To clean the gutters on a two-story, 2,000 square-foot home with 180 feet of gutters will cost anywhere from $90 to $200.

Another option is to install gutter screen or gutter covers, which help keep leaves and debris from getting into your gutters. These cost anywhere from $0.50 – $6.00 per foot of gutter, depending on the type of system you buy.